越界的味覺漫遊 : 論也斯遊記中的飲食意涵
也斯; 遊記; 飲食意涵; 人文關懷; 城市
旅遊與飮食存有密切關係，文學著作當中，有不少結合兩者的記錄、描寫。香港作家也斯[梁秉鈞](1949-2013)對旅遊與飲食同樣感興趣，他自上世紀七十年代開始出國遊歷，踏足臺灣、日本、德國、美國等地。於也斯的遊記當中，可見各地的見聞與飲食論述，各具風味，各有故事。也斯踏足的地域廣泛，涉獵的美食繁多，成就大量以旅遊、飲食為題的作品，當中的旅遊經歷與飲食意涵，同樣值得探究分析。 本文擬以也斯的遊記為研究對象，從飲食的角度切入，了解也斯於旅遊與飲食的課題下，著重地域探索與人文關懷的目的。然後，從自身、他者、文學與電影三部分，梳理也斯於旅程中，接觸飲食的不同渠道。最後，本文嘗試從味道、人物、生活、城市、創作元素五方面，探討也斯遊記中豐富的飲食意涵。也斯旅遊的探索的目的、渠道與意涵相互聯繋，呈現也斯對飲食的興趣和尊重，亦能感受他對人事景物的關注和熱情。 Tourism is closely related to food and drink, in which many literary works comprise descriptions of a combination of these two elements. Yesi[Leung Ping-kwan] (1949-2013), a Hong Kong writer who was interested in both components, began traveling abroad to foreign countries including Taiwan, Japan, Germany, and the United States etc. since the 1970s. The distinctiveness of tourism experiences and dietary descriptions of each and every unique place could be clearly shown from Yesi’s travel journals. In virtue of the extensive scope of geographical regions that Yesi had visited, many of his literary works incorporates tourism and food and drink as the main theme, while both the travel experiences and dietary implications inscribed are worthy of further exploration and analysis. This paper aims to examine the intention of Yesi's emphasis on geographical explorations and humanities, by looking into his travel journals from the dietary perspective. It then sorts out the different channels Yesi used to be in touch with food and drink from three parts: oneself, the other, and literature and film. Finally, this paper attempts to study the substantial dietary implications written in Yesi5 travel journals from five aspects, namely flavors, people, life, cities, and creative elements. The interrelationships between the purpose, channels and implications of Yesi's travel exploration illustrates his great interests and respects over food and drink, as well as his attention and enthusiasm to people and scenery.
ISBN of the source publication: 9789866325175
蕭欣浩 (2013)。越界的味覺漫遊 : 論也斯遊記中的飲食意涵。輯於周寧靜、謝懿慧(編)，《2013中華飲食文化國際學術研討會論文集》(頁583-602)。台北: 財團法人中華飲食文化基金會。